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Between June and September, Leh is swamped by almost as many
transient Tibetan and Kashmiri traders as souvenir hungry tourists. Most
of the merchandise hawked in their temporary boutiques and stalls comes
from outside the region too: papier-mâché bowls, shawls and
carpets from Srinagar, jeweler and miniature paintings from Jaipur and "Himalayan"
handicrafts churned out by Tibetan refugees in Old Delhi.
Tibetan and Ladakhi curios account for the bulk of the goods on sale in
Leh's emporiums, though most of these are run by Kashmiris from the
Srinagar valley. The Ladakh art palace off the main bazaar, one of only
two locally owned and run souvenir stores, is the least pushy, and a good
place to browse. Among its vast array of articles are Tibetan trumpets,
cymbals, brass and copper 'Chang' kettles, prayer wheels, thunderbolts,
'Gur Gur' tea churners, 'Chaam' dance masks, 'Thangkas', coral and seed
pearl necklaces, to name but a few.
If money is no object, one could even splash out on a 'Perak', the long
ladakhi head dresses, encrusted with turquoises, which cost upwards of Rs.
4,000. Turquoise is sold by the 'Tolah', and quality and age determine the
price. One will be able to find vendors sitting on the main road,
otherwise try the locally owned shop. Potala, down Nowshara lane, off the
main road close to the
Jami
Masjid .
Shopping in Leh During The Tourist Season
During the season, temporary "Tibetan markets" run by itinerant
Tibetans spring up around Fort Road where one can pick up amulets, butter
lamps, beads, and reasonably priced silver jewellery inlaid with semi
precious stones. However, the best place to head for Thangkas and hand
woven Tibetan carpets is the Tibetan Children's Village Handicraft Centre,
up the hill from the GPO, which also has racks of cheap woollen Nepali
style jackets, waistcoats, and the whole gamut of "Free Tibet"
stickers and posters.
Traditional Items from Ladakh
For authentic Ladakhi souvenirs try the outfitters and provision stores
dotted along the main bazaar. The Lahauli run Sonambongo Barongpa &
Sons, at the top right end of the street, sells traditional costume and
religious paraphernalia at fixed prices. If one has been wondering where
to find those dapper stovepipe hats, hand dyed 'Gonchans', raw silk
cummerbunds, tie-dyed rope soled shoes. Bhutanese cross button shirts,
prayer flags, real Ladakhi incense, or even monks' robes, look no further.
The Ecology Centre's handicraft shop with a second branch at the bottom
of the bazaar is another source of good quality traditional clothing,
including hand knitted woollen jumpers, hats and socks. Genuine Pashmina
shawls, however, are hard to come by; start looking in Chang Tang
co-operative in Karzoo, five minutes' walk up the lane past the ecology
centre. Run by five local women who buy wool direct from nomadic herdsmen
in eastern Ladakh, the co-op was set up to break the Kashmiri's
traditional monopoly of the Pashmina business. Even if one is not in the
market for a shawl, the workshop is well worth a visit.
Books! Books! Books
Easily the best bookshop in Leh is Artou's, who have two branches: one on
the main bazaar, and another between Tibetan restaurant Devi and the
Ecology centre. Both stock a fair selection of Indian penguin classics,
plus dozens of more expensive titles on Ladakh and the Himalayas.
Secondhand paperbacks are sold or part exchanged at Parkash Stationer's
opposite the vegetable market while the Leh book depot in the main market
is good for maps. Finally, for postcards, black and white photographs of
Ladakh and stationery, visit Ali Shah's Postcard Shop above the main
bazaar.